Hiking in Nepal: Annapurna Range
Base Camp - Part two
Cold start
It was a cold night at Deurali, even with the blanket provided. I decided here that a night at the base camps would be too cold for me, given the temperatures there could drop below 20 degrees. So, I ambitiously planned to hike up and back down in the same day. I headed out even earlier than usual, around 7am. There was absolute silence that morning, stunning itself. The air was bitterly cold, so less reason to delay.
From Deurali, the trail reached a new level of difficulty and trepidation. The trail wound into a small valley that penetrated high up into the mountain range, which would take me to the foot of Machapuchare at the other end. And we were told there was a risk of avalanches at the initial opening of the valley.
The valley
Despite the warnings, I was excited to continue the hike. Fortunately, I didn’t have to evade an avalanche. And it was a magical feeling, to walk in the snow, under the shadows of the mountains, as the morning sun struggled to climb higher than the surrounding slopes. The sun began to shine in a narrow passage in the mountains, from the direction I had come from, creating a subtle orange skyline.
The valley was fairly narrow, and the steep edges were imposing on each side. Heavy snowfall from the evening before meant the trail was mostly hidden – and I carved the path for those behind with my footprints. The rough direction of trail wasn’t too difficult to find, as it followed along a flowing mountain stream, through small trees, towards the brighter peaks on the far side.
At the foot of the mountain
The silence was only disrupted by the subtle sound of the gentle stream flow. More light began to filter into the valley, even though the sun remained hidden behind the mountains. The walk through the valley took lasted around ninety minutes. That accounted for hiking in mix depths of snow, as well as some scrambling on tougher sections (perhaps why I had lost the trail). It was ninety minutes of tranquillity and serenity I can still feel if I imagine myself back there.
When I broke until the open area beyond the valley, the sun was just about to break free – Machapuchare proving to be the final hurdle. I was now directly underneath this beautiful mountain, at the base camp. Even at my own elevation of over 3,700 metres, there stood a true colossus. I felt tiny, physically and figuratively, in awe of the size and grandeur of the mountains surrounding me.
Mountain fortress
The base camps are in a natural fortress, defended on all sides by mountain walls of the tallest order. What is more, there access is only possible via a single-entry point – through a treacherous valley.
After standing in awe at Machapuchare, I set out about making it to the final destination – Annapurna Base Camp. It was additional 400 metre climb, and it was tough going, as there were inches of snow underfoot. And a misstep off the trail meant potentially falling through deeper snow of up to a metre. I fell into waist-high snow on more than one occasion, freezing my entire bottom half – and my hands as I scrambled out.
Base Camp
It was exhausting, trudging up to Annapurna Base Camp. I felt a strong sense of pride for making it there, having pushed myself physically to make it. I simultaneously felt a sense of relief, knowing that the return was mostly downhill, and the hardest part had been completed.
The sun was high above, and the white ground was blindingly bright – as I discovered later. Despite the sun’s rays, it remained brutally cold. My aim to make it back – and avoid the brutally cold night-time temperatures – meant I couldn’t stay long. I began the return trip down the trail. It was easier heading down, yet still tough in the snow.
Unexpected encounter
The clouds began to draw in, and it wasn’t yet midday. By the time I reached the valley around an hour later, the clouds became thick – and snow began to fall. It was light at first, but visibility reduced, and the clouds and snow became thicker. I could use gravity to my advantage and enjoyed sliding down the snow on my backside.
I made it back to Deurali at around 2pm. Tired physically, but on a high mentally, I pondered my next move. I think it was the elation of the morning’s views that motivated to me to hike for a further four hours or so, making this the longest day of hiking so far. I was rewarded, shortly before sunset, when I spotted langurs in the trees above the trail. The langurs stayed close to each, weary of me. But close enough for me to observe them for a while – a perfect way for me to finish the day’s hike.
Exhaustion
By the end of the day, I was absolutely exhausted. I had hiked for nearly twelve hours. I looked forward to a decent meal and a well-earned sleep in a warm bed. Sadly, events took a turn for the worst – and my night was cursed by a bad case of snow blindness.