Hiking on DartMoor: Wistman's Wood
This walk could be deemed a spectacular fail, for, having set out to see Wistman’s Wood – the ancient forest on Dartmoor – we didn’t make it. We did hike in the vicinity, even completing a loop around the wood, but didn’t go inside.
The weather turned midway through the walk – the forecasted rain arriving early – and as most of the route was brutally exposed to the elements, we abandoned our goal. I have had to make peace with myself for not making it to the intended destination.
In spite of that, the walk was an enjoyable one. Granted, walks in the rain are much more easily appreciated when they are over.
At Two Bridges, near the centre of Dartmoor National Park, is the trail head. From there, just a few steps took us out onto the moors. Heading north, it was a moderate climb towards Longaford Tor, around two miles away. Despite the recent rain, the ground was firm and fit for a good-paced march.
It was around halfway up, after I posed for a photo atop Littaford Tor, the wind picked up and the rains came down. I don’t think of myself as overly sensitive to wet weather, yet nor am I unbreakable. With heavy rain predicted for the rest of the day, and the clouds looking unrelenting, it didn’t feel worth continuing onto higher, more exposed, ground.
So, we improvised. We cut across west on a path down to a shallow valley, towards a stream. This is a typical feature of Dartmoor, where the hills are separated by one of the many rivers in the park. We had a nice surprise taking this route, stumbling on a small patch of forest on the side of the trail. As it was not far from the edge of Wistman’s Wood, I am going to take a leap of faith and claim it is also ancient woodland.
The trees were short and craggy, bent into all sorts of strange and mystical shapes. The stones beneath were covered in moss, as were the branches low to the ground, reaching towards the forest floor. Most remarkable was the fact the surrounding area looked barren, beaten down by the throes of winter. While the wood, in contrast, almost glowed green, despite the grey skies.
We lost our way momentarily near the river, and had to trudge through the long, wet grass, with increasingly damp feet. Along with the rain, that meant we were now soaked from head to toe. It took around ten minutes of searching along the river’s edge before we found a crossing point. Then we started the ascent on the other side.
Finding the path again, it was a demanding trudge up towards Beardown Tor, in the wind and rain. Standing on the tor gifted us a panoramic view, but the strength of the wind could have almost blown one of us off. Hiding under the granite structure did provide a respite from the elements, at least.
After leaving the sanctuary of the tor, we headed back south. I must take responsibility at this point, given I was leading the way, for losing the trail again. Losing a trail doesn’t always make much difference, especially when the ground is flat. Here, after a short while, the terrain changed drastically.
The grass was long and dense, with patches of bog blended in – soft, squishy ground which my hiking boot sank into with ease. Not only was it harder to make progress, it also meant more time in the poor weather. It was here we abandoned the goal to reach Wistman’s Wood, which lay beyond the rough terrain we found ourselves in. It felt unwise to plough on in an attempt to reach it, considering there was some distance still to return after.
After struggling for twenty minutes or so, we spotted a group of hikers – who appeared to be skipping along merrily with the aid of the trail – and we followed them to dry land. This latter part of the walk proved to be one of the most scenic. The path followed a small stream into an area of pine trees, sheltering us on either side. The sounds of light rain on the leaves and the gentle trickle of the stream created a peaceful and calming distraction from the strong winds and heavy rain that awaited us on the other side.
The final slog back to Two Bridges was less enjoyable – I had to grin and bear it. I was so soaked that reaching the car wasn’t much relief, because only a change of clothes could help me now.
It is with the benefit of writing this in a warm, dry home that I can look back fondly on this hike. I did genuinely enjoy the experience of walking in tough conditions, to see more of Dartmoor, and in its full glory. It would be a shame – and extremely limiting – to only brave the outdoors in favourable conditions.
I am learning to appreciate tougher challenges, as much as simpler ones. Winter walks can be as fun and fascinating as they are harsh, so I would strongly recommend trying them – you might realise you enjoy it, too.
