Hiking the Pennine Way:
Day four
The sun was shining brightly in the early morning, with barely a cloud in the sky. But the cold air of mid-Autumn bit through to the bone. We had to start very early, as this was to be a long day.
My body was tired, the third day had drained the energy from me, and I was dreading the thought of another full day’s hiking. We were three-quarters of the way through our planned hike. Just under 57 miles done, and just over 20 miles to go. Yet, I felt less enthusiastic than on any other day, despite knowing once this day was over, I could finally rest.
We were dropped off back in Dufton, to rejoin the Pennine Way, and started the trail on the muddy farm track heading north. It was a gentle climb, through farmland and fields full of cows, including a humongous bull we had to avoid by going off-piste. The climb continued over rolling green hills that characterise the English countryside. Before merging into a mountain path – up the fells of the Northern Pennines.
The hike up the fells was very tough on tired legs. The incline increased, as we passed from green pastures to exposed hillsides, climbing steadily higher. We passed Knock Fell at 2,602 feet, then Great Dun Fell at 2,799 feet, followed by Little Dun Fell at 2,759 feet (hardly ‘little’) and finally Cross Fell at 2,970 feet. Each time we reached a milestone, we had to drag ourselves onward and upward to the next.
The skies were still clear, but it was bitterly cold. Evidence of this was the layer of snow on the ground, uncommon in most of England at that time of year – but not in the coldest area of the country. There were fantastic views to match the effort, at least, with panoramic views to the Lake District in the West. As well as views over the fells we were climbing on, the peaks and troughs to the North and East.
We definitely deserved a rest, but we only stopped very briefly at the top for food. We had completed around nine miles of intense hiking, but the cold had frozen my fingers. And the wind was unrelenting, too. Still, even with the chill sinking painfully into my hands, I had to make an obligatory snowball to throw at one of my companions. And I had to choose Mark as my target. My aim didn’t let me down.
This moment was the pinnacle of the route, in terms of elevation. And, figuratively, the pinnacle of the day’s hiking. Despite the fatigue and the cold, it was exhilarating to have climbed up and over the fells, passing beautiful snow-covered slopes, in the knowledge I had completed the hardest part – the incline. It was downhill from here.
It was ironic, then, that the rest of the hike was an almighty struggle for me. It may have been the cold, that made my body seize up. We had to hike at a good pace to make it back in daylight hours. And the pain in my hip resurfaced and continued the rest of the way. It may have been partly psychological, or my refusal to take any painkillers, but I couldn’t help wishing the rest of the hours away.
Fortunately, the last ten miles or so were on relatively mild terrain, and mostly downhill or flat. In other circumstances, it would have been lovely walking through gentle, green fields.
Good conversation and sheer determination saw me through. Aside from one wrong turning, which added an extra half a mile I could have done without, I made it. We were able to appreciate one last sunset over the fields before Alston – a rather fitting end to a remarkable four days.
That evening, a short hobble from the hostel to the local pub for food was a difficult one. The stress I had put my body under for the past four days was felt deeply. We had completed 77 miles over some of England’s most challenging environments.
All the physical toil could be put forgotten, for the sense of achievement I had. The trail was as rewarding as it was challenging. The rugged nature of it added to the beauty of the landscapes we hiked through. We survived rain, snow, climbing up a waterfall, over mountains, and under valleys. We even avoided a large bull on the loose. Shattered but not defeated, we headed to the lovely city of Durham, to enjoy a well-earned weekend off.
