Hiking the Pennine Way:
Day two
I’m sorry to admit I started the second day with much less enthusiasm than the first. A cramped bunk bed meant my hip was sorer than when I went to sleep. On top of that, the forecast predicted for rain for most of the day. After a full breakfast, as we readied ourselves for the hike, the rain had already started. It looked bleak out on the moors, and I doubted whether I could make it through the day, let alone the next three.
Not to be denied, my twin brother kindly offered to carry most of my belongings, while Mark offered to carry my book (a paperback). I had to resort to taking a combination of a painkiller and an anti-inflammatory to help dull the pain – in the hope it would allow me to warm up and complete the hike. With that, we hit the trail again.
The first hour or so, trudging through bog, was rough for all of us. The drizzle coming down from above, combined with the marshy wetlands underfoot, dampened my spirits as much as anything. And I had a twinge of pain with every stride, which led to me falling behind the group.
After around an hour’s walking through the bog the rain stopped, though. The path became drier and firmer, making for easier hiking. I think the painkillers must have kicked in, too, because suddenly I had a spring in my step.
For the next couple of hours, the sun appeared, and we had a much more pleasant couple hours of hiking. The path starts to climb to slightly higher ground, above the river that circles the path. And the trail is through gentle farmland, without much incline. The second day was the shortest of the four, in terms of distance, with the least incline. Making good time after a relatively slow start, we stopped for lunch in the shade of a hut built for hikers.
After lunch, we passed through a tunnel under the A66, which divides the Yorkshire Dales National Park from the North Pennines Area of Natural Beauty. Beyond here, we marched into greener fields, a mixture of dry and damp ground – although it was generally easy to avoid the wetter sections.
As we followed alongside dry-stone walls adjacent to the trail, and enjoyed the last of the day’s sun, a bright, full rainbow appeared in the direction we were heading. Sadly, the rainbow signalled rain, and we were soon heading straight into a gathering of dark, ominous-looking clouds.
The trail took us between four reservoirs that on another day may have provided lovely views. Unfortunately, this is where the downpour started in earnest. Heavy rain pelted us for over half an hour. With no trees for cover we had no choice but to persevere.
By the time the rain started to ease off, we had been soaked. But it continued in stops and starts for the rest of the way to Middleton. The wind added to the treacherous conditions, making the final stretch chilly as well as damp. As we passed through one field after another, the occasional farm wall provided us with some shelter. We even spotted livestock looking for respite from the weather, huddling behind walls and sheds.
I don’t think the grey clouds did the scenery for the final part of the day’s hike justice. We were walking in open landscapes of green, over rolling hills, with wide-ranging views even in the rain. But we focused on getting out of the rain and reaching warmth. So, the last few miles became as much about completing them as it did about enjoying them.
Yet, we still had a few moments of inspiration. The view of the bridge over Grassholme Reservoir is a spectacular scene, before the trail crosses over it. And as the trail approaches Middleton from above, the vantage point provides a panoramic view down towards the town – and our place of rest.
I was beyond relieved when we finally made it into town. I captured one final scene on my camera when crossing the bridge into town, of the river flowing between beautiful trees with colourful Autumn leaves, a moment I remember for appreciating that I had made it through the day, after initially doubting myself.
We had warm, cosy rooms waiting for us, and immediate set about drying ourselves. A gastro pub across the road served us hard-earned, tasty and filling French cuisine.
Luckily, the second day had the shortest distance of the four to travel, with the least amount of incline. Of course, I couldn’t have done it without my walking companions, not least for the physically assistance in carrying my belongings. But also, for the psychological support.
I think we all appreciated each other’s company for keeping motivation high, particularly when the going was tough. And we were to need it again, for we were only half-way through, and had the two hardest days to come. But, for that night at least, I slept very contently.
