Western Australia to the Northern Territory - Part Five

Crocodiles

Riding solo, my route turned inland again, heading further east on a never-ending road into the outback. From Broome, I drove for almost five hours to reach Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge) National Park. There is a section of road that is particularly tough to drive on, and I had another breakdown – although less serious – when my tire punctured. Fortunately, another kind passer-by stopped to help me change it.

The park is characterised by the river running through it and the pools of water that were full after rainy season – and the freshwater crocodiles it is home to.

This was my first encounter with crocodiles in the wild. It was both exciting and scary to see them lurking in and around the water. Freshwater crocs grow to around two metres in length, much smaller than their saltwater relatives, which relieved some of the fear. Still, they could give nasty bite, and I kept my distance. They seemed uninterested by my presences, with dozens lining the water’s edge as I walked through the park.

More national parks

The next stop was only a short drive away – Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek) National Park – another chance to stretch my legs. The attraction here is a network of tunnels, with water running through the caves. After seeing crocodiles not far away I didn’t wade into the water, but I appreciated the views, nonetheless.

I then drove another two hours to Danggu (Geikie) Gorge National Park – yet one more extraordinary landmark in the desert. Here, a wide river runs under limestone cliffs, creating a wonderful scene under the clear sky, of rocks, trees arising out of the dry ground, and greenish-bluey water flowing beneath.

Making new friends

I approached the Northern Territory, but I still had one place to see. I discovered Purnululu National Park, or the Bungle Bungles – a unique attraction. Giant, cone-shaped sandstone structures rise over 200 metres high. They’re visible from miles away, and on approach, they become more impressive as I grasped the size of them.

The park requires a a 4×4 vehicle to access it due to the rough trails within. So, I scouted for lifts at the rest area just outside, where I had slept the night, but to no avail. Not to be deterred, I started to trek into the park, and hope for a ride along the way. And not long after I started walking, a group of Irish lads, plus two girls from France and the USA, stopped to offer a ride – I was welcomed to join the motley crew for the day.

The Bungle Bungles

The park is extraordinary. A popular way, if expensive, to see the park is with a helicopter ride. The views from above must be stunning. I felt the views from the ground were special enough. Also, to be in midst of these unusual and enormous rock formations, in all their grandeur, and suddenly feeling very small as I walked beneath them, was a wonderful experience.

The park is full of short trails. We walked to Cathedral Gorge, a large, inverted cove between two of the domes’ walls. It created a rounded enclave, surrounded on all sides by steep walls of rock. Almost inevitably, there are people who use the place to test their echo. 

We spent most of the day driving to several areas and wandering through different formations, including one very narrow section that we had to squeeze through.

Continuing on – to the Northern Territory

I kept travelling with the new group for a few more days. We stopped at Kununurra – the last town in Western Australia before the border with the Northern Territory. I tried to sell my car here, as I needed to find work again soon. I was unsuccessful, though, and I made the easy decision to continue travelling – onto the Northern Territory.