Backpacking In Laos
We entered Laos from the northeast border with Vietnam, on another bus shuttle that took us to one side of the border, to complete the border checks and get a visa – this had to be done on foot. The visa process was very smooth on every border crossing on the trip. There was rarely a queue, or any issues with the guards, and the process usually took a matter of minutes.
The border checks consisted of looking at the date of the stamp in my passport from the country I was leaving, before getting another stamp for the country I was entering. Just make sure you don’t overstay the length of your visa, as that’s often the cause of trouble. We didn’t even have to wait long for everyone on the bus to get through, and we were on our way.
I enjoyed the initial venture into the country, despite it being on an uneven and bumpy dirt road. This route allowed us to see an undeveloped region of Southeast Asia. There were plenty of green spaces as we followed the windy roads on the mountainsides. It felt nice to travel through a wilder side of Laos, as the rest of the stay was in touristy destinations. We passed small villages on the roadside, wooden and brick structures, housing mixed generations of families, with their livestock roaming nearby.
We broke up the journey to with an overnight stay in the small town of Muang Xai, that sits on a junction in the North of Laos. While there, we headed to the temple that sat elevated above the town. The temple – as with many across Southeast Asia – provided a wide-ranging view of the surrounding area, including the mountains we had just drove down from.
The next day, we taking yet another bus ride, southeast from Muang Xai. The start of this journey was a similar road, full of twists and turns, tight corners, and slow mountain climbs. Fortunately, the latter half was a smoother trip, to the tourist centre of Luang Prabang.
This town is clearly heavily influenced by tourists, with the market stools set-up with food, and trinkets for Westerners to take home with them. Luang Prabang is a nice town to wander around, even with the less authentic feel, and the food offerings were fantastic. The markets stayed open late and there was a fun atmosphere, for both locals and visitors, with music and dancing in the streets.
The next destination – around a further five hours south – was Vang Vieng. This bus journey was definitely worth it, though. After a couple hours driving higher into the mountains, we stop at a café – overlooking an extraordinary valley. In fact, most of this ride was spent staring out the window, at the gorgeous green mountains and valleys we were driving up and under.
Onto Vang Vieng, which has become oddly synonymous with tubing – hapless backpackers sitting in tyres, rushing down a strong river, for cheap thrills. Sadly, but unsurprisingly, there have been deaths associated with it. And this has led to the practice being halted at times – yet it somehow seems to be allowed again. I didn’t even enquire into whether it was available.
I did enjoy exploring the area around Vang Vieng – which is lovely – presumably the lush landscapes attracted backpackers in the first place. The river runs along the outskirts of town, and the sun was shining on the green plains alongside it. There are trails out of town to explore.
A brisk stroll, or a gentle bike ride, along one trail takes you to limestone formations emanating steep from the ground. You can delve into the small, dark caves that are delve underground and even underwater. Or simply wander in and around the large rocks, and enjoy the tranquillity, a world away from the bars blasting loud music in town. There is a busy nightlife here, with venues staying open late, if you fancy indulging in the festivities.
The fourth and final stop in Laos was the capital – Vientiane – a relatively quick two hours south, on the edge of the border with Thailand. Vientiane is by far the most developed city in Laos, and the most densely populated – it’s population is almost ten times larger than the second largest city.
It is also home to the elaborate, fantastically bright, gold-plated Buddhist stupa – Pha That Luang. For a country that is considered amongst the poorest nations in the world, it is an almost surreal sight to see this gold structure shining high up into the skyline. It is a must-see, nevertheless. There are also remnants of colonial buildings dotted around town, amongst various temples. As well as the Patuxay Monument – a memorial to those who died fighting for independence from France. The architecture makes Vientiane an enjoyable city to walk around, even though the temperature had risen again, and I would get a sweat on in just a few strides.
The trip out of Vientiane was on a train back to Thailand, for my final few days on the continent. When we arrived at the station it was almost entirely deserted – primarily because we arrived so early. But it did become much busier. And the journey was quite hectic, particularly when changing at the border. It felt like being part of a large migration – seeing all the other passengers lugging bags in and on top of the carriages.
On reflection, I didn’t explore enough of Laos. The short trip through the much-travelled roads didn’t leave me with the feeling I probed deep enough into the opportunities the country has for an intrepid traveller like myself. For example, I have heard of eco-tourism projects that help you see pockets of wildlife remaining in their national parks, that I would love to see. On a short return to Laos a few years later, I did see a bit more of the country. One day, though, I would love to dive deeper into the wilder side of Laos.
