Western Australia to the Northern Territory - Part One
Crash (bandicoot)
I started the journey around a week after my fall, when my arm was healed sufficiently to drive. I waited until late afternoon to see off my old friends on the farm, before heading north to Perth. I drove for around three uneventful hours towards Mandurah, stopping for a walk on a beach. There, I had a spotted one of the world’s most famous video games characters (in the ‘90s) – Crash. I must admit, I wasn’t aware a bandicoot lived in Australia – but here one was, looking for scraps in a car park.
I headed closer to Perth before spending the night on the roadside outside the city. I slept in the car, as I often do on road trips, and I’m rarely disturbed. This night, though, I woke up after midnight with a fright – there was a knock on my window. I got up to see a police officer looking shining a torch into my car – at this point, I was unsure whether to be worried or relieved. Gratefully, she had only stopped out of concern for my welfare. She advised me to be cautious, then left me to sleep.
The Pinnacle
I had already spent time in Perth when I first arrived, so I didn’t stay for long. I made my way north, to Nambung National Park, around two hours from the state capital. It wasn’t long out of the suburbs that the city transforms into wilderness. And in a patch of desert stand The Pinnacles – tall rocks protruding mysteriously, and sometimes comically, out of the sand.
I already felt a world away from the busy city and surrounding farmlands in the southwest. There are dunes of golden and white sand surrounding Nambung, amongst low-lying vegetation that typifies Australia, and a sprawling coastline in the distance. I spent the day driving around the rocks, with an evening stroll along the beach – with a few kangaroos for company.
And then there were two
During my time there in 2015-2016, Gumtree was a commonly used site in Australia, for anything from job hunting to shopping. It was also popular with backpackers looking to share rides. I used it on this trip and met another Brit, Katie, who I picked up in Geraldton – around three hours’ north of Perth.
I have been on plenty of solo road trips, and I enjoy the freedom and independence they allow. Travelling with others will always require a level of compromise, but it can be worth it, for the shared experiences and good conversation. Another unexpected benefit of travelling with others is that they may suggest activities or locations you hadn’t thought of – and enhance your trip in ways that wouldn’t have happened otherwise.
Last not but least – you can share the burden of driving. On an extended trip like this, with thousands of miles to drive, I was especially grateful for a second driver (although please don’t read that as the main reason!)
Kalbarri
The two of us continued north still, driving another two hours to Kalbarri – both a town and a national park. The coastal cliffs just south of the town are known as the Red Bluff and they contrast fantastically against the deep blue of the Indian Ocean. We walked along the coastal trail there, stopping at several lookout points, as the sun went down. We then slept just off the road, overlooking the ocean – a great benefit of sleeping in the car, finding amazing places to sleep and wake up.
We started the day with another walk on the coast under the morning sun, followed by a bite to eat in town. We then drove inland on the road to the impressive Kalbarri National Park. The park is a display of red rock, dotted with modest green bush and short trees, while the distinctive Murchison River divides the otherwise dry landscape. The water runs through a valley that has cut sharply into the sandstone. The river runs in straight lines, until it diverts sharply in 90-degree angles, creating a zig-zag effect.
There is much to do in Kalbarri, from short walks above the valley, multi-day hikes, to water activities. We stayed for the afternoon, stopping at various points to explore, before continuing our journey north – with plenty more still to see.