Western Australia to the Northern Territory - Part Six

The North

I only had five days in the Northern Territory on this trip, which wasn’t nearly enough. My five-week trip was nearing its end, and I was feeling the effects of living on the road. The twice-daily upheaval of transforming my car into a bed, the limited food options – always worrying about keeping food in the car and cooking on a tiny stove – the relentless heat, and long drives, all contributed to my fatigue. As much as I enjoy road trips, it is testing, particularly in more extreme conditions. I was tired and in need of rest. I was, however, determined to see what I could before it was all over.

My first taste of the North was at Timber Creek – a very small town around two hours from the border from Western Australia. It was extremely quiet as I stopped off to pick up supplies – the epitome of a sleepy town. I then drove another three hours or so to Katherine Gorge. It was interesting to see the terrain changed, from the deserts in the northwest, to more tropical, and greener surroundings here.

Katherine Gorge

Katherine Gorge is next to Nitmiluk National Park, designating an enormous protected-area. It’s hard to explain how extraordinary places like this are, after driving through desert for so long, to find rivers both wide and deep. It’s no surprise they hold special significant for the Aboroginal people, who survived for thousands of years living off the land, before Europeans invaded.

In the park, I had another unexpected wildlife encounter – this time, from above. Hanging from the trees, not far from the trail, were a group of bats. In broad daylight, they hung upside down, sleeping in the sunshine. I thought they looked charming, far from their reputation as blood-sucking vampires.

Kakadu

The final spot to explore was one of the most famous, and largest, national parks in Australia – Kakadu. It is known for its saltwater crocodiles, whose population has expanded greatly since near extinction in the 1980s. The wetlands of the park are perfect hunting grounds for these modern dinosaurs.

During my two days in the park, the skies were overcast, and it even rained one evening – heavily. A total contrast to the preceding weeks. I went on multiple walks around the lakes and ponds of Kakadu, on a trepid search for saltwater crocodiles. I was mindful of staying at least five metres from the water’s edge, as is recommended. Unluckily, or otherwise, I didn’t find any crocs. I did see many other animals though, including wallabies, wild pigs, a dingo, and many species of birds.

Pride Rock

A place of note in Kakadu is Ubirr – Australia’s answer to the Lion King’s Pride Rock. It a huge slab of stone that rests at a 45 degree angle over other rocks – creating an almost perfect replica. It even offers a panoramic view over the park, including green flatlands stretching for over a mile ahead – perhaps Australia’s equivalent of the Savannah.

From Kakadu, I would head to my final destination – Darwin, the state capital, on the North coast. I enjoyed a couple of days around the city, including a night out with the Irish lads. I also managed to spot salties – from a safe distance – in Mary River National Park. It was a fitting end to a majestic road trip.

Darwin

The Northen Territory had entered its dry season and consequently Darwin attracted an influx of seasonal works that hoped to find work in the warm, dry climate, while the southern cities moved into winter. After average daily highs of around 30 degrees Celsius in the North, I found the heat too much, so I decided to make for cooler climes. I decided on Brisbane, which saw average daily temperatures between 10 and 20 degrees.

Sadly, I wouldn’t be driving to Queensland. My poor car, after driving well over 10,000 miles (16,000km) was on its last wheels. It wouldn’t survive another cross-country trip, so I sold it for the bare minimum and used the proceeds to buy a flight across.

The end of the road

Coming to the end of such a long and eventful trip I couldn’t help feeling a little sad. I know I had so many great moments on the road, but during the trip, I had barely stopped to take in everything I had experienced. Now, without a car and beginning a search for work, I had more time to look back.

The overriding feeling, though, was of appreciation for the opportunity and experience. I had discovered a whole new environment, both harsh and fascinating, of Western and Northern Australia – from the long coastline to the expansive Outback. I had discovered natural wonders while living as a nomad, eating, and sleeping, in the great outdoors, with memories I would keep forever.