Hiking in Poland: Morskie Oko
Return distance: 13 miles (20km). Total elevation gain: 800 metres.
To be cautious of: extreme weather conditions, ice in winter
An uninspiring start
Morskie Oko is a picturesque lake in the Tatra Mountain range that separates Poland from Slovakia – and it is a reliable feature on any of Poland’s “must see” lists. The lake is only 5 miles (8km) from a main road, making it relatively accessible by foot (if you have transport). There are also plenty of trails for longer and multi-day hikes into the wilder parts of the region.
Unfortunately, the route to the lake from the car park is not an exciting one. I followed a tarmac road for around five miles, on a constant incline, without much fanfare. The consolation is the adjacent woodland, and the views improve a little at higher elevations, with glimpses of the surrounding mountains and wilderness. The road itself is off-limits for cars, but I saw tours being offered on horse-drawn carts – not to be considered for any self-respecting hiker (or anyone with concerns about animal welfare).
Seeing double
The uninspiring terrain had the ironic effect of inspiring me to hike up to the lake faster. I started the walk around 7am local time, and in just over an hour and a half, I was by the lodge at the lakeside – with no one else around. This is where the views improve significantly.
The water of the lake was almost completely clear, reflecting the image of the mountain backdrop. At this time of year, the peaks were covered by a lot of snow, with layers of white between the grey, rocky mountainsides. The lake created a mirror effect, reflecting the image of the mountains in the water.
Slip on the ice
A trail circles the lake, and I followed it the entire way, to enjoy the scene from every angle. The ground was icy in parts, and in a lapse of concentrate, I slipped and tumbled. I landed with a nasty thump as my head landed on ice, so much so, I had a slight headache for the rest of the day. Fortunately, it didn’t stop me appreciating everything I saw.
On the south side of Morskie Oko, opposite the lodge, the trail veers away on a separate path and climbs steadily. I followed the rockier path to Czarny Staw pod Rysami (Black Lake below Mount Rysami) – a hidden gem – another lake, smaller but no less beautiful that its neighbour.
A beautiful surprise
Approaching this second lake, the ground levelled out for several metres to the lakeside. Again, the water sat below steep mountains behind. Next to this smaller lake, the peaks were closer to me – and more imposing. Yet standing there alone, under clear skies in cold, fresh air, in almost complete silence, felt like pure tranquillity.
I stayed and took in the moment, until my hands and feet began to freeze. Then, taking more care on my return journey, I headed back down to Morskie Oko – with great views down to the larger lake.
However, a mist began to appear – and blocked the view of the mountains considerably. I couldn’t have timed the hike better. I continued the trail round and back to the lodge. With a few other hikers for company now, I looked upon the now hazy lake one last time, then returned down the road.
Appreciation
I felt more appreciative of the road, despite a disparaging first impression, having it to thank for my morning alongside the two lakes. The beauty of the lakes is in their clear water, and the mountains that overlook them, enhance the majestic landscape.
I had walked just short of 13 miles (20km), with almost 800 metres total in elevation. Much of which was on the flat road. I realised, despite its dull appearance, the trail serves a great purpose – a route to one of the most scenic destinations I have visited in Europe.
