Backpacking in Nicaragua
Trouble at the border
My first attempt to enter Nicaragua was a failure. And entirely my own fault. I had travelled from El Salvador through Honduras to a town on the Honduran border with Nicaragua. I then took a shuttle bus to the border post – with zero money on me. I’m unsure why I assumed there wouldn’t be a cost to cross the border. There had been a charge to pay on at least two of the borders I had crossed already. Nevertheless, I didn’t have the $10 on me to cross. I politely declined an offer from someone at the border who offered to pay my fee, then drive me to an ATM in Nicaragua, if I paid him $30.
Instead, I hitched a free ride on the back of a pickup and returned to the border town I’d just left. With all the cash machines closed, I stayed at night in a hostel, on the proviso I would pay in the morning, handing over my passport as collateral. With a strong sense of déjà vu, I made the same trip to the border the next day.
Esteli
My successful entry into Nicaragua was swiftly followed by another mishap on my first expedition, just outside of Esteli, to Tisey Estanzuela Natural Reserve. The attractions here include a waterfall and a viewpoint overlooking the surrounding area. The day I visited, a Wednesday, happened to be the only day of the week there wasn’t a bus service through Tisey Estanzuela, that takes visitors to the waterfall or viewpoint. On my trip so far, my exercise was limited mainly to walking with my backpack. So, I revelled in the opportunity to take on a brisk walk in nature, and I went on foot.
A bus from the city took me to the entrance of the reserve. And I planned to walk the five kilometres to the waterfall. Through no fault of mine, or through some fault of my own, I missed the sign for the waterfall. This was before the days of GPS-tracking apps that could measure the distance and I had no clue of how far I had walked. So, I kept walking. And walking. By the time I was certain I missed the waterfall, I thought I must be close to the viewpoint – which became my new de facto destination. The problem, I couldn’t remember how far it was to the view point.
It turned out to be fifteen kilometres from my starting point. Another problem, I only packed enough water for a five-kilometre walk, and the temperature was around 30 degrees Celsius.
Hot, sweaty, and tired, I made it up to the viewpoint. I took a well-earned moment to rest and soak in the panoramic views. Relived to have made it, I appreciated the views of the forest and hills, somewhat proud of my achievement. And yet, I couldn’t shake the thought of having to walk the same distance back, in the afternoon heat.
The walk back was a slog. Close to exhaustion, I must have sweat out double the amount of water I had. On the way back, the sign to the waterfall magically appeared, as if from nowhere. No one was more grateful for me that day to take a swim in the cold water below.
Jiquilillo
The trip to Jiquilillo, via Chinandega (great name for a city), went far more smoothly, with the stay there far more relaxed. And for that, I am forever grateful.
It’s located on the Pacific Coast, and I stayed at an eco-hostel – Rancho Esperanza – no more than 50 metres from the beach. With the tide out, wide sandy beaches are exposed – which are almost entirely empty of humans – a tranquil place for a walk. A popular spot for surfing because of the large waves, I only went it for swimming and still felt the power of the tides.
The hostel attracted a motley crew of guests, myself included, from different parts of the world, most of who were happy to sit around and discuss all sorts of the worlds problems. With good food and good company, I took a few days to wander, read, and relax, around halfway through my trip.
Leon and Granada
My lasting impression of Leon is the heat. Even after several weeks to adapt to the Central American climate, I couldn’t cope with the daytime temperatures reaching around 40 degrees Celsius. I did struggle at times when carrying the backpack around. I managed to keep it to a modest 10kg or so. I found I had to change my outfit after a single trip from one city to another. Minimising trips with the large rucksack was essential to maximising comfort. After a few days stay, including to the beach, I passed through the capital, Managua, on way to Granaga.
Granada, although hot, benefits from its proximity to Lake Nicaragua – the largest lake in Central America and the 19th largest lake in the world. Its size is highlighted by the fact bull sharks are known to spend their infancy in the lake, before returning to sea by river. A hike arranged with the hostel saw us delve into the forest surrounding Granada – with an armed guard, in case of trouble – to the relatively small Laguna de Apoyo. Another spot for a swim, much gentler than in the Pacific Ocean, as well as a chance to spot wildlife – spider monkeys. Incidentally, my encounter with these primates opened my eyes to the possibility of seeing animals in the wild. Previously, I thought it was limited to safaris or documentarians. From them on, many of travels were focused heavily on wildlife.
Ometepe
This island comprises of two volcanoes, rising out of Lake Nicaragua, to create a secluded retreat, largely undeveloped, and surrounded by fresh water. The size of Lake Nicaragua is highlighted by the reported presence of bull sharks. And Ometepe is reached by a multi-hour ferry trip. This happened to be my last stop of note in Nicaragua, and it was yet another beauty within this country, nothing like anything I have seen anywhere else in the world. Truly unique.
Ometepe has plenty to offer, in the forms of gentle walks to hiking volcanoes, driving along the dusty roads, taking a boat or canoe out, or simply lying on the beach. My favourite moment was inadvertently stumbling upon a troop of howler monkeys. They certainly let you know if they think you’re too close – they are given the name for a reason. After I spent around ten minutes observing them, totally entranced as they climbed and played in the branches, I decided to leave them – and anyone within a mile radius – in peace.
