Backpacking In Thailand - part one
My immediate impression of Bangkok – it’s great! And I’m not a city-person, generally. I thought the busyness, the noise, the hustle and bustle and the organised chaos (as well as the unorganised) of Bangkok a tribute to human life in cities. The introduction to Thai cuisine there was a joy, with unlimited street food vendors. And there is something for everyone; culture, nightlife, shopping, amongst others.
A few days in Bangkok, largely in tourist areas, does not make me suited to analyse life for a permanent resident. And I don’t doubt there are negatives to life in this city.
All I can say is that I had a positive experience under the bright and often intrusive lights of the city. I thought it was a fun place to visit. I know it’s not for everyone and, as always, you will have to judge it for yourself.
From the capital, we headed south to the islands of Ko Tao and Ko Pha Ngan, by bus and ferry. The former appeared eerily subdued – three months after a gruesome murder of two British tourists in 2014 – although it’s possible it happened to be a quiet period. Although tragic, incidents for tourists are very rare and I don’t think it should be enough to put people off leaving home – especially given there are plenty of shocking stories in the news at home.
I didn’t see any trouble or cause for concern. In fact, the only fright I had came when I swam face to face with a shark. Luckily, it was a young blacktip shark, less than half a metre long.
While out snorkelling, I experienced the temperate waters off Thailand that make the land a hotspot for travellers. Having grown up on the British Isles, it was amazing to stay in the water for more than twenty minutes without shivering.
Ko Tao is a beautiful island. The blue waters and the golden beaches, along with the dense green foliage. Much of the accommodation is a short walk to the beach. And there are opportunities to snorkel and Scuba dive here.
I was less impressed with Ko Pha Ngan overall, despite the similarities. I did have fun meeting up with a friend from back home, enjoying some drinks on the beach. Again, it felt a world away from the beaches in Britain, which would be cold and blustery by nightfall.
Yet, even during a quieter time (there was no full moon during our time), while wandering the island I couldn’t help fearing the number of visitors has contributed to a loss of what made the island so popular in the first place. The natural beauty and tranquil atmosphere, now overshadowed by the music, the raucousness, and inebriated visitors. Thankfully, there are other islands in Thailand to visit, that are better preserved.
Back on the mainland, via another ferry ride, our first stop was Chumphon. A well-known tourist spot is the temple Wat Tham Khao Plu, just out of town. There are often temples built in the highest points near Thai towns, and a tough walk up to the top is a chance to get a view of the surrounding area.
Here, the climb is particularly challenging (reportedly more than 1,000 steps up). But the view of the surrounding limestone formations is spectacular. The tropical afternoon storm, common at that time of year, hit just as we reached the top. Although clouding the view, we could still observe the landscape for miles around.
At these religious sites, popular with locals and foreigners alike, there are often other guests – macaque monkeys – who have made the temples their home. Often, it’s because they are guaranteed free food from visitors. This interaction with humans has made many of the monkeys bold – to the point they may harass you for anything you have on you. So, take care, and keep your food (and valuables) hidden.
Making our way back to the mainland, and up the southern coasts, we passed some towns almost devoid of tourists. It was a welcome relief, and a chance to soak up Thai towns without the influence of foreigners. In areas where there are less Westerners, inevitably less people know English. Still, despite the language barriers, the people were always friendly and supportive. Not least, on the attempt to make it to Kui Buri National Park.
