Backpacking In Thailand - part one
Bangkok
My immediate impression of Bangkok – it’s great! And I’m not a city-person, generally. I thought the busyness, the noise, the bright lights, the hustle and bustle – the organised chaos – of Bangkok a tribute to human life in cities. There is something for everyone here: culture, history, nightlife, shopping and more. I was introduced to wonderful Thai cuisine via the street food vendors.
A few days in tourist areas does not make me suited to analyse life for a permanent resident. But I can say I thought it was a fun place to visit. I know others who haven’t been as keen. As always, judge for yourself.
The most amazing thing that happened to me in Bangkok was, when wandering the streets near Khaosan Road, I saw my brother’s friend from Exeter – by complete chance. It was the first of two coincidental encounters I would have in the country. I agreed to meet up with him again in a few days, on Ko Pha Ngan.
Ko Tao
From the capital, we headed south to the island of Ko Tao, first by bus, then by ferry. It felt eerily subdued on the island, being three months after a gruesome murder of two British tourists in 2014. Although this was a tragic event, incidents involving tourists are very rare. I didn’t see any trouble or cause for concern here from the residents.
Ko Tao is a beautiful island. It is surrounded by blue, temperate waters off golden beaches, with dense green foliage inland. Much of the accommodation is a short walk to the beach and there are opportunities to snorkel and Scuba dive here. The only fright I had was when I went snorkelling; after diving off the boat, within seconds, I came face to face with a shark. Happily, it was only a young blacktip shark, less than half a metre long. Having grown up on the British Isles, it was amazing to stay in the water for more than twenty minutes without shivering.
Ko Pha Ngan
I was less impressed with Ko Pha Ngan overall, despite the similarities. The sun had shone on Ka Tao, but now it was cloudy and grey, with some rainfall. I did have fun meeting up with the friend from back home, as we enjoyed some drinks on the beach. Again, it felt a world away from the beaches in Britain, which would be cold and blustery by nightfall.
We visited outside of the window for the full-moon, or half-moon, parties. Yet, even during a quieter time, I couldn’t help fearing the number of visitors has contributed to a loss of what made the island so popular in the first place. The natural beauty and tranquil atmosphere, now overshadowed by the music, the raucousness, and inebriated visitors. I think there are other islands in Thailand to visit that are better suited for those seeking other forms of leisure.
The climbing of the temple
Back on the mainland, via another ferry ride, our first stop was Chumphon. A well-known tourist spot nearby is the temple Wat Tham Khao Plu, just out of town. There are often temples built in the highest points near Thai towns that offer a tough walk up to the top for a view of the surrounding area.
Here, the climb is particularly challenging (reportedly more than 1,000 steps up) and shouldn’t be taken lightly. Once conquered, the view of the surrounding limestone formations is spectacular. The tropical afternoon storm, common at that time of year, hit just as we reached the top. Although clouding the view, we could still observe the landscape for miles around.
Cheeky monkeys
At these religious sites, popular with locals and foreigners alike, there are often other guests – macaque monkeys – who have made the temples their home. Usually, it’s because they are offered free food from visitors. This interaction with humans has made many of the monkeys bold – to the point they may harass you for anything you have on you. While I enjoy wildlife encounters, and took a moment to observe the monkeys, I was wearier given their reputation. Take care by keeping your food and valuables, hidden.
Making our way back to the mainland, and up the southern coast, we passed some towns almost devoid of tourists. It was a chance to soak up Thai towns without the influence of the tourist industry. In areas where there are less Westerners, inevitably less people know English. Despite the language barriers the people were always friendly and supportive. Not least, on the attempt to make it to Kui Buri National Park that follows.
