Exploring and Hiking in Crete
Before I researched Crete as a potential destination, I had unpleasant prenotions of what it was like to go there on holiday. I had images of rotund, sunburned British and German tourists fighting over space for their towels on a crowded patch of sand, on a private beach at the rear of their all-inclusive hotel. On top of that, rowdy 18-to-30 parties, stag and hen dos, inevitably leading to, amidst the exchanging of STIs, drunken brawls breaking out at chucking-out time.
It was a nice surprise, then, to discover the riches on the island. From steep mountains to deep gorges, a rugged coastline with quiet seaside towns, Crete – away from the party towns – is far more than a ‘fly and flop’ destination.
We flew into Chania on the west of the island, one of two airports on Crete. From there, we took a public bus up the steep winding roads to the mountains. We headed towards Omalos and the start of the Samaria Gorge trail. The 90-minute bus ride is a nice introduction to the Cretan terrain. It isn’t long before you are out of town, and you begin to climb steadily. As the bus slowly climbs up into the mountains, the increasing elevation offers ever-widening panoramic views, far out to sea.
It possible to take a bus early to the start of the trail and hike the trail the same day. We decided to stay nearby, in self-catered accommodation, to explore the area above the gorge. We enjoyed a delicious but heavy Cretan meal, probably unwisely, before setting off on a hike of the mountains.
The trail wasn’t a particularly long distance – around 6 miles or so (10 kilometres) there and back – but it was steep, making it a tough challenge. Especially because the sun was shining, with no shade, and the temperatures reached close to 30 degrees even in late September.
Crete continued to obliterate my earlier perception of it, as we were treated to delightful views over the gorge and valley below, as well as the craggy, desolate mountains opposite. After a good effort to reach the top, there was an unimpeded view to both the north and south coasts, as well as mountains on all sides. Breath-taking (not least because of the hike itself).
The following day, we traversed the well-beaten Samaria Gorge trail. This 10-mile (1km) one-way walk was a welcome contrast to the previous day’s hike. The start of the trail is on a prolonged downward trajectory before you enter the gorge. There are sections of steep steps, which can be demanding on the knees, as well as gentler trails heading down. The mountains and trees lining the trail begin to offer shelter from the sun, too.
The trail takes you alongside and over rivers and streams, passing working mules, as you reach the gorge. Suddenly, the vertical walls of the gorge are upon you, and there is a remarkably narrow path to follow between the sheer heights either side. Although the route can be very busy, traipsing over bridges, some sturdy and some flimsy, walking by abandoned churches, and ruins of an old village, made the hike an entertaining one. A highlight for me was spotting the feral goat species, kri-kri, that reside in the gorge.
The Samaria gorge trail is extraordinary – a unique experience – and so it is easy to understand why it is so popular. I usually prefer exploring nature when there are fewer people around, if possible. Even though that wasn’t the case here, I thoroughly enjoyed the hike, and I would recommend it despite the crowds.
The trail ends at the small seaside village of Agia Roumeli. I get the impression this village developed largely as a tourist destination, since there are no roads in. The only way out, other than walking back up the gorge, is by ferry. It has plenty of nice accommodations and restaurants. Plus, immediate access to a quiet beach, allowing me to swim in the Mediterranean for the first time.
From Agia, we head east to Loutro, another small tourist-centred town. The ferry ride gifted us with superb views from deck, back onto land, as we followed the rugged coastline. Huge cliffs rose high above the sea, before dipping back down into several gorges along the way.
From Loutro, we walked under the midday sun – the temperature now rising above 30 degrees and almost baking us. It was around two hours of moderately paced walking along the coastal trail, which was smooth in parts, but rocky in others. After the trail dips down onto a couple beaches, there are several places of elevation, and these felt tougher because of the previous two days of hiking, combined with the unrelenting blaze of the sun.
The main draw of this hike had to be the views of the coastal waters. The sea was a bright mix of turquoise in the shallows, and a dark blue in the deep. I might as well have jumped straight into the water immediately upon arrival in Chora Sfakion, given the sweat I was drenched in. Exhausted from the three days of hiking, it was nice to enjoy some good food, take a dip in the sea, knowing tomorrow was a day of rest.
Sfakion had a similar feel to Agia, as the water’s edge was dominated by hotels and restaurants, although there is a larger local population. Road access to the rest of the island meant it had bus routes back to other parts of the island, too. Sadly, the stay here signalled the end of the exploration of Crete. As agreed with my travel companions, we were due to head back to Chania for the second – and very different – part of the trip.
The two-hour return journey was more treacherous than the first. The roads bend continually up into the mountains, at a rapid ascent, making it a nightmare for those who suffer from motion sickness. I’m rarely affected on a bus, but I felt ropey until we reached the straight roads around an hour in. Of course, it’s possible the feeling of throwing up may have been caused by the realisation I was now headed to an all-inclusive resort.
The days exploring Crete had been a revelation. The varied landscape was unexpectedly stunning and offered challenging hikes. The local cuisine was delicious and filling, perfect for rejuvenating after the hikes. We stayed in a variety of accommodation, had time to relax in the evenings, and dive into the sea each day. I thoroughly enjoyed these few days. The next few were to be a compromise, with my travel companions, and with my principles. But I hoped to be proven wrong again.