Part one of tHe Scotland Road Trip
Once we had the car, we set off on a nationwide tour of Scotland. In hindsight, we did a lot of driving – and a description of our route over those six days may highlight this.
Our first destination after Glasgow was Loch Lomond. From there, we drove through the Cairngorms to Buckie. We then stopped off Inverness, before venturing across to the Isle of Skye. Following a whirlwind tour of Skye, we headed to the foot of Ben Nevis. And after climbing that, we drove through Glencoe to Loch Ness, and finally, south to Glasgow. That was exhausting just writing it out. Yet we managed to fit in many remarkable and memorable events, so it’s hard to say I would have done anything differently.
Loch Lomond
On the first day, we drove for just over an hour to Loch Lomond, and the foot of Ben Lomond. It was a moderately challenging hike up to the top, and we were lucky to do it on a bright, sunny day. There was a fantastic mix of colours, the deep blue of the lake, the spotted purple of the heather on the slopes, and the green of the moorland, all under a clear sky. At the top the climb became more dramatic, with steeper climbs and striking views of the mountains to the north. While facing south, at the peak, provided a view of the tiny islands rising out of the huge loch. The entire descent gifts wonderful views as you return to the shore.
The Trossachs
After finding a well-earned meal at a pub along the main road, we drove for around an hour again to a campsite just south of Strathyre. And we had our first night under the stars. It was noticeable how much the temperature dropped, even when the sun had been out all day. Nevertheless, it was lovely to fall asleep, then wake up, in fresh, green surroundings.
The next morning was slightly overcast, and chillier than the day before, as we continued to the northern part of the Trossachs. After a Scottish fry-up in Killin, we headed east to the pretty village of Dunkeld, and walked the Hermitage to Black Linn Waterfall. It is an extraordinary walk, feeling dwarfed under giant Douglas fir trees. And in the right season, you can see salmon attempting a seemingly impossible journey up the river.
Cairngorms
The rest of the day was spent driving a scenic route through the Cairngorms, on the A93, past Braemar and Balmoral. It was an enjoyable drive, albeit in grey, wet conditions. And I couldn’t help feeling we experienced the true side of Scotland and the Highlands – and the often-challenging climate. The mountains looked rough and rugged, exposing the harsh nature of the area.
Moray Firth
We made it to the northern coast and that night we slept on a boat in Buckie – booked via Airbnb. After breakfast with the friendly hosts, we drove west along the coast. Stopping to see a small colony of grey seals, before a stop on the beach at Lossiemouth. We were extremely lucky to see a group of dolphins, know to inhabit Moray Firth, a short way out at sea. I must have made Steph stay at least 45 minutes as I watched the swimming in the surf.
Inverness to Skye
The next stop was Inverness, around another hour’s drive from Lossiemouth. Here we stopped to walk around the compact city centre, along the river, passed the imposing castle, and through the quaint old town. I had another round of haggis, before we set off on the road again – to Skye.
If you are to take the road that loops west, then southwest, from Skye to Inverness, you might find it is a slow route at times. Largely because of the winding roads. But there should be no rush, because you will drive past a variation of pretty scenery. We found wide open stretches of roads, with mountains in the background, and the occasional waterfall bursting out of the mountainside. We also drove lush, green fields, dense woodland, and brightly coloured blossoms hugging the roadside, before reaching the sea lochs separating Skye from the mainland.
Wild camping
Our arrival on Skye was to be our obligatory night of wild camping – that is, to camp freely wherever you choose, legally – as is allowed in most of Scotland. We decided on parking the car at a rest point by the edge of a Loch Ainort. As it was the end of May, the light didn’t seem to fully disappear until long past midnight. And although the terrain was flat, it left us exposed to the elements. We probably should have been expected wild camping to be as the name suggests – wild.
The strong wind meant we felt the cold. And the ground underneath was boggy in places, making it tricky to pitch the tent. After a short search, we found a small area that was relatively dry and free of stones, got the tent up quickly, and managed to stay relatively warm. Waking up to the view of the blue lake, surrounded by green hills, almost entirely devoid of human influence, was special. The next morning, casually waking up in a majestic natural setting, is the reason everyone should try wild camping at least once in their life.