Part two of the Scotland Road Trip
Isle of Skye
Our fourth day on the road, the start of the second half our road trip, was spent touring the Isle of Skye. We were fortunate to have a bright day, with light cloud, the entire day, making the views quite remarkable. The area around Sligachan looks great for hiking, with sharp, dramatic peaks nearby. And from there we drove the narrow road northwest to Neist Point.
This is another slow drive, as the road is one-way in sections, meaning you have to negotiate with oncoming traffic to allow passage. Yet again, there is no rush to get to the destination. The area is largely for grazing livestock, but still has the feel of wilderness. Arriving at the coast is another treat – steep cliffs separated by a wide bay nestled between them. I don’t think every day on the west coast of Scotland will be that sunny, but we could enjoy a gentle stroll with a calm breeze, looking out at sea.
The Old Man of Storr
I couldn’t leave Skye without stopping at the most famous landmark – the Old Man of Storr. It is a decent slog to get up close to them, but it’s worth it. Trudging around the gothic-looking rock formations is like seeing something out of a fantasy film, with huge spiky pillars emerging out of the hills. And if that isn’t enough, there are panoramic views of the lowlands and sea beyond.
One day isn’t enough to spend on Skye. There is enough to keep you exploring for weeks, by road or by foot. Or, if you prefer to stay put, there are enough spots to make a base, relax, and enjoy the beauty of the Isle.
The Old Man of Storr
I couldn’t leave Skye without stopping at the most famous landmark – the Old Man of Storr. It is a decent slog to get up close to them, but it’s worth it. Trudging around the gothic-looking rock formations is like seeing something out of a fantasy film, with huge spiky pillars emerging out of the hills. And if that isn’t enough, there are panoramic views of the lowlands and sea beyond.
One day isn’t enough to spend on Skye. There is enough to keep you exploring for weeks, by road or by foot. Or, if you prefer to stay put, there are enough spots to make a base, relax, and enjoy the beauty of the Isle.
Eilean Donan Castle
On the way back to the mainland, we stopped off at Kylerhea and popped into the Otter Hide there. Luck, which we had plenty of on that trip, didn’t shine on us that evening, and we didn’t spot any wildlife there. And we reluctantly drove away Skye that night. That night we stayed in a campsite overlooking Eilean Donan Castle – standing proudly over the water. Yet another example of the attractions that are seemingly around every corner of the country.
Loch Ness and Ben Nevis
The next day, we saw two of the largest and most famous Scottish landmarks. First, we drove past Loch Ness – the largest lake in the British Isles (by volume). We didn’t see a sign of any monster. Then, passing Fort William, we drove to the foot of Ben Nevis – Britain’s highest peak. Steph dropped me off, not fancying the climb, and I started the hike around 2pm, much later than most of the crowds. This allowed me to hike up without any traffic jams – a common complaint given how busy it can get.
Plenty of high clouds meant it wasn’t too hot, but the views remained unimpeded. It starts with a steady climb, on a smooth path. And one of the best views for me was around a third of the way up – looking over the valley of Glen Nevis, stretching out alongside the mountain.
The climb
Around halfway, the hike gets tougher, with steeper inclines on many steps. It is here where you will most likely meet traffic of other hikers. It is tough going. A motivation is the splendid views all the way up, changing as you reach new elevation. If it’s clear, you can still spot the sea beyond the mountain range.
It is a gruelling climb to the summit. The quick pace I started with soon caught up with me. And the way down is tiring, too. Even with gravity onside, it is tough on the knees, and demands a lot of concentration to keep balanced. Tired, it was incredibly uplifting to spot Steph hiking up, having decided to meet me around halfway. And we got to enjoy the views of the valley together.
That night, we found more quirky accommodation courtesy of Airbnb – a tiny but cute converted shed at the end of the host’s driveway. We could enjoy a nice home-cooked meal and relax indoors, in warmth. Particularly needed after Ben Nevis.
Final day on the road
The final day on the road was driving through the eerie valley of Glencoe. It is an epic journey, where the road takes you close to some of Scotland’s most imposing mountains, standing mightily above you. It is remembered for the brutal massacre that took place in the 1600s. But is now more cheerily used as location for popular films.
Beyond the valley, the land opens out as you head south. The terrain is still epic, but calmer. For us, the rain finally came down – and hard. Much of the drive back past Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park to Glasgow was in heavy downpour. Yet we couldn’t complain, for the weather had been kind for most of the trip, not least on the days we were on foot exploring. And so, we spent out last night in Scotland where we began, in Glasgow – happy, but exhausted.
Reminiscing
Looking back at all we had managed to fit in, we hadn’t once been prevented from doing something because of the weather. As I don’t believe in fate, I put that down to good fortune. But it can also be attributed to being adaptable. We planned a general route. But the itinerary was only loose planned and could be changed easily. We booked accommodation on the day, when we knew where we were going to end up (or just searched for a place to camp). That can be risky if you can’t find anything. But leaving plans open offers you more flexibility, particularly on road trips, which allows you to get the most out of your trip.
The end
It was a busy week for us, with a lot of driving each day. And it was a shame not to be able to spend more time in each of the destinations. So, I wouldn’t do the trip the same way again. But it’s inspired me to return to several parts of Scotland one, namely the Cairngorms, the isle of Skye, and Glencoe, for extended trips. And it was a fantastic whirlwind tour of large parts of the country, through varied expanses of rugged and wild terrain, to appreciate the nature we have here in the UK.