Backpacking through Central America:
The Preparation and arrival
In 2011, I embarked on this loosely planned trip around Central America. I conjured up the idea for this trip on a whim. I was being let go from a temporary job, my first full-time role since graduating from university, and I had a choice to make. Should I look for another unfulfilling role, in the middle of winter, in the UK, or should I take the opportunity to go on an amazing adventure halfway across the world?
With the generosity of my brother and sister-in-law, I had lived rent-free for the previous six months. I calculated that I had saved enough to last me around three months in Central America, so long as I spent wisely. So, I booked my flights in and out of Cancun – the cheapest destination to fly from the UK – to arrive in January and return in April. Aside from booking a week at a Spanish school in Guatemala, I had an open itinerary.
I had very little experience to draw on, to prepare for this trip. I had been abroad three times prior to this; each time, within Europe, to large cities, and the primary excursion was usually nights out with large groups of people. This was to be completely different – not least because I was going alone. I set off with a rough plan to travel down to Panama (which didn’t happen, but more on that later) and back. That was about it, as far as planning goes.
My mum bought me a decent backpack for Christmas – which I still have today. I received other travel-themed gifts; a first-aid kit, a belt bag (which I could wear under my clothing, to keep my passport and spare cash hidden), and a guidebook.
I found the guidebook very useful on this trip – particularly as it was in the time before smartphones. Generally, they provide a map of the town, with a list of accommodation, details on public transport, ideas for places to eat, points of interest, as well as ideas for itineraries. Even in the age of smartphones, I think guidebooks are a useful resource in an unknown land, and a good backup if you’re likely to be ‘offline’ for any amount of time.
Having said that, I like to find my own way – and following a guidebook, or popular website, will likely take you to the most popular, well-trodden paths – which isn’t always the most exciting way to travel. I found suggestions from locals and fellow travellers as useful as anything I read.
My description of my trip is deliberately short on precise details, such as the name of the guesthouses I stayed in, and where to get buses from. That is the type of information you can obtain from guidebooks, or websites. Information found on those can be updated regularly, whereas mine could be outdated.
Instead, I want to share the highlights of my trip; what I did and felt during the trip, in the hope of bringing it to life for you.
The beginning
I flew into Mexico via Cancun blissfully unaware it was a popular spot for Spring Break. That wasn’t my scene, and I only stayed for one day anyway. I spent the day acclimatising to the hot climate, and the evening on a bar crawl with another Brit – an experienced traveller who passed on some useful advice for backpacking.
The most memorable tip he gave me was how to keep my bag secure while sleeping on public transport. The trick is to put the bag straps around your arms or legs, so if a would-be thief tries to snatch it, they’ll wake you up in the process. Sadly, I have heard of travellers having their bags taken on buses and trains, so this has stayed with me.
Chichen Itza
From Cancun, I headed to Valladolid. Although it’s ideally located to visit Chichen Itza nearby, it was far less touristy than Cancun, and I felt that I had arrived in Mexico. I had my first taste of the local street food, which I was to enjoy many more times – rice and beans.
This site is dominated by the large pyramid in the centre, which stands very tall and wide in the middle of a patch of grass. The condition of the reconstructed pyramid almost makes it inaccurate to describe Chichen Itza as ruins. Although the surrounding architecture shows signs of ageing. Guided tours are available to learn more about the history and culture of the Mayans that once ruled the region.
I found the midday crowds; groups of pale-skinned, English-speaking tourists, wandering around in shorts and t-shirts, chatting loudly as they went, ever so slightly diminished the authentic feeling of this ancient city. Nevertheless, it is an impressive sight. I would recommend an early or late visit, to avoid the crowds.
Leaving Mexico
From Valladolid, I headed south, to the border town of Checumal – around four hours by bus – which was a stopping point before heading to Guatemala. While there, I met a friendly Mexican from the capital, who suggested I should visit Mexico City on my trip – a brief encounter that changed my itinerary down the line.
The following day consisted of a long bus journey, through the heat of Belize City, before looping across to Flores in the North of Guatemala. This was a common feature of my journey – long, cramped, often sweaty, bus rides. I’m unsure if I could manage them as well now, but at the age of 23, I coped okay. Most importantly, they were a very cheap way to get around.