Backpacking in Guatemala
The heat on the bus travelling through Belize was in stark contrast to the refreshingly cool temperatures around Flores at that time of year. Flores is situated in the middle of a lake, which, in turn, is surrounded by a huge forest. If I had been as aware as I am now, I would have explored the National Parks in the area, and attempted to spot wildlife there, as well as the crocodiles that reportedly reside in the lake. Instead, I joined the droves of tourists there to see the Mayan site, Tikal.
Tikal
An early bus ride from Flores, slightly delayed after a breakdown enroute, arrived at Tikal for sunrise. Tikal was, at one point, the largest Mayan city. It is set in the midst of tall trees, an area undeveloped enough to support wildlife, which is worth keeping an eye out for while wandering the ruins. A tour will take you under and even over the various temples and buildings. Climbing one of the tallest temples allows you an impressive panoramic view of the forest and city from above. And walking below, you can appreciate the scale of the structures, reaching as high as the trees.
The Kings of old would have to walk up these pyramids, holding the weight of gold above their heads – if you could do that without falling, you probably deserved to be king.
Footnote: Tikal is famously used as Endor, in the third film of the original Star Wars trilogy, Return of the Jedi.
Semuc Champey
At the hostel in Flores I learned about Semuc Champey – a benefit of having an open itinerary is the flexibility to change plans at short notice and, in this case, visiting a place highly recommended by fellow travellers. A seven-hour bus ride took us over and through gorgeous valleys, providing the most spectacular views so far.
Semuc Champey is a haven of waterfalls, pools, found by traipsing through the lush trees and vegetation surrounding them. Some of the pools are calm and still, ideal for taking a relaxing dip. On the other hand, there is a strong river running through, and some areas should be met with caution.
A network of caves has been converted into a thrill-seeking opportunity for anyone who wants to get their adrenaline rushing. A local guide took a small group of us into the cave – with only a short candle each to provide light. Once inside, we had to navigate the caves – crawling and climbing. The most challenging test was passing through the areas of deep, dark water, and having to swim with one arm while keeping the candle dry. Then, around ten minutes in, we stopped. And the guide disappeared into what seemed like a waterfall ahead.
We were unsure if this was an accident, or intentional – and even if it were deliberate, was he coming back for us. After an anxious two-minute wait, he did return for us, revealing the episode as a hilarious prank. We dropped through the waterfall too and made our way out, to daylight.
The accommodation at Semuc Champey was a beautiful lodge, raised above the ground, with a roof but open to allow the fresh air in – and plenty of space to allow a few guests to sleep on mats on the wooden floor.
Antigua
Guatemala City’s reputation meant I only stopped in transit on way to Antigua Guatemala – a World Heritage Site – located around an hour from the capital. The small city is known for Spanish colonial architecture – and sits in the shadow of large volcanoes. It was also the destination for my first week of Spanish lessons.
Antigua has been influenced by the influx of tourists and expats, and here I felt for the first time a sense of being targeted as a tourist, with offers to purchase trinkets and charms whenever I walked past the stalls. It is a lovely place, with good food, friendly people, and outstanding views. So, the popularity is understandable.
Lake Atitlan
This majestic and magnificent lake is encircled by a series of small towns, most of which are named after Saints – San Pedro, San Marcos, San Juan, Santa Catarina, Santiago… and Panajachel – seemingly the only one that isn’t. I stayed in San Pedro for another week of Spanish lessons. This small town is home to Tz’ utujil, Native American people, one of the surviving Mayan ethnic groups in Guatemala. They speak their own language, so have learned Spanish as a second language.
Walking through San Pedro, despite the emerging tourist industry, was a different experience to that in Central America so far. It seemed to be a relaxed and open culture. For example, the owner of the Spanish school met me at the boat, and accommodation could be included alongside the lessons – and the room was at a home with his brother and his family.
The week consisted of organised events, such as travelling to a neighbouring village to see a traditional festival, barbecues with the other students, and a hike up to the top of the mountain at the edge of the lake. Aside from that, one night, after getting to know the family, I cooked for my hosts and their children. To cook something as simple as pasta with vegetables in a tomato sauce, and for my hosts to taste it for the first time, was a gratifying feeling. I still recall the hosts’ words ‘¡que rico!’ to describe the smell of the cooking.
The most gruelling venture of the trip so far was a kayak across Lake Atitlan, to another village, San Marcos. Unreliably assured it was only 45 minutes, I set off, alone. A navigational miscalculation (I forgot to pack my compass with me) meant I circled around the Northwest edge of the lake, extending the first part of the trip to around two hours.
After docking for a short period, I made the return journey – against the wind and waves – surprisingly strong for a lake. I was able to head straight for San Pedro but in face of the waves my inexperience and failing strength resulted in a hard slog for another two hours to home. For the rest of the day, I still had sensations of sitting in the kayak, bobbing in the waves.
The morning after my kayak misadventure, it was time to leave Guatemala, and head East to El Salvador. Sunburn also interrupted my sleep that night, affecting my ability to recover, which contributed to a greater sense of unease on the bus journey up the winding, narrow roads exiting Lake Atitlan. Yet, surviving the roads up, the increased elevation gifted me one last chance to admire the extraordinary scenery I was leaving behind.