Backpacking in El Salvador
I’m almost ashamed to say my main perception of El Salvador, prior to travelling there, had been based largely on the reputation of San Salvador – its capital city – as one of the murder capitals of the world.* I’m prouder to say I still travelled to El Salvador – and my impression of the country changed for the good, due to my experiences there.
*It did achieve – for want of a better word – the world title for having the most murders per population in 2015, although it has since steadily reduced the murder rates since then.
Santa Ana
I arrived from Guatemala to Santa Ana, a city of over 250,000 people, in the West of El Salvador. Its colonial history is demonstrated by its architecture – not least the large cathedral, towering high above the skyline. There were displays of the insecurity that troubles the capital – armed soldiers stationed on the streets, guarding banks and other institutions. Although I was fortunate to avoid any scares while in Central America, I did hear a few stories of travellers falling victim to robberies, some of which were violent, in my three-month trip.
As in many cities in these Central American countries, hostels are dotted around the centre – easily accessible and affordable. In late January 2011, the hostel I stayed in was relatively quiet. The other guests and I benefited from the hospitality of the welcoming host, who showed us around the local restaurants and bars. We could also arrange tours from the hostel to the sights around the city – namely, to the nearby volcano.
Climbing the volcano
I hadn’t stumbled upon many volcanoes in my life up to this point, so I didn’t really know what to expect here. The first sight of it was an imposing one – steep slopes covered in dark ash, standing high above the surrounding area. Thankfully, no lava appeared to be coming out, and no ash clouds were forming – reassuring us that 2005 eruption was going to remain the most recent activity of this active volcano!
Pre-hike, the volcano imposed itself upon those daring to venture up. Between the summit and the daring hiker lay seemingly endless inclines. The land being covered in dark rock over scant vegetation necessitated weaving zigzags on the slopes throughout the ascent. This combined with the tropical sun above and the increasingly warm ground below, meant this was a challenging – but, as always – rewarding trek.
At the summit, the path circled a wide crater. And the bravest could follow paths down into the crater, burrowing fairly deep back into the volcano. Most surprising, or alarming, at the top were the puffs of cloud and smoke emanating from the crater. 2005 suddenly seemed relatively recent. Fortunately, turning away from the imminent eruption, the summit offered expansive views of the surrounding area – relatively flat, aside from the neighbouring mountain. The neighbouring mountain contrasted the volcano with green slopes of bush and trees. Returning to the starting point we spotted an armadillo bustling through the leaves. Unfortunately, it scampered off before I could snap a photo.
Next stop
Leaving Santa Ana, I did have to stopover in San Salvador – after being kindly offered a ride from a friend of the hostel owner to the bus station there. Unfortunately, or carelessly, I requested a lift to the wrong bus station. And so, I had to take a taxi to the other station across the city, anyway. I made it, though, and boarded a bus heading Northeast to Perquin, near the Northern border with Honduras.
Perquin is a quiet town, drawing tourists with its history as a rebellion enclave during the civil war. Nearby is the site of El Mozote, a reminder of the horrors of that war, with murals remembering the victims of the massacre there. Its also possible to tour hideouts of the former rebel army as well.
Vast forestland dominated the terrain north of Perquin to the border. I couldn’t help think it would be difficult to know when El Salvador ended and Honduras began. Closer to town is a secluded small freshwater pool. In this calming oasis, the cold of the water helps escape the heat of the day.
Leaving El Salvador
I spent just a week in El Salvador. Given my relatively brief experience of the country, I feel there is much more to see. In the short time I had here, the friendly encounters and natural beauty ensured El Salvador supplanted the reputation I had previously affixed to it. I’m always happy to be proved wrong, and I’m happy to say I was here.