Hiking in Nepal: Annapurna Range
Base Camp - Part one
Back to the mountains
It is generally estimated to be a seven-day return trip to Annapurna Base Camp – which reaches over 4,000 metres in elevation. I started this hike near Dhampus, and it began steeper than the previous one. It may psychological, but when the hike starts off steep, it always feels more difficult to me. It was a sunny afternoon and I had to labour up the slopes under the afternoon sun.
I passed many dogs on the way, as is common in these areas. On this occasion, one decided to follow with me for the best part of an hour – brightening my spirits and making the effort feel less daunting. With the added encouragement, I continued hiking until early evening, before the sun fell.
Continuing on
The skies were clearer than on the Poon Hill hike, and the first village I stayed in was at a higher elevation. That meant, on the first morning, I had a glimpse of the mountains I was heading towards. This I took as additional motivation also. To be able to see these majestic formations helped me focus my mind on pushing through the physical toil.
I noticed the skies were often clear first thing in the morning, gradually becoming cloudier until midday, and my afternoon the mountains may be shrouded completely. So, I stuck to a routine of setting off as early as I could manage – around eight in the morning, after breakfast – to ensure clear views on way.
Run-in with a bull
On the second day, the trail declined to lower elevations, making it much easier on the legs. Here, I had my scariest moment on a hike so far – when I spotted a lone bull charging along the path, around one hundred metres ahead of me. It was huge and running at a decent speed. I wouldn’t have stood a chance if our paths collided.
Utterly scared and with no preparation to deal with a bull charge, I did the only thing I could think of – I clambered off the trail and hid behind some low bushes nearby. Thankfully, the big beast ran off past me without looking. I have no idea what caused it to bolt like it did. I do know that if for any reason it had taken a disliking to me, the bushes would have served very little protection. So, I counted myself fortunate that it wasn’t after me.
Stairways to heaven
The easy hiking was short-lived, as the trail inevitably turned upward again – and very steeply upwards at that. I had to keep my head down and plough on up many stone stairs. I was able to climb at a good speed, often passing other hikers, but it was exhausting. I used the good progress I made as an excuse to stop earlier in the day – rather than tire myself out with a full day’s hiking.
I enjoyed the rests from mid-afternoon; it was nice to sit in the dining areas of the guesthouses and greet the other hikers as they came in. It was also nice to have a shower while the temperature was relatively warm, because the showers were cold, and the evenings were much colder.
Breakfast with a view
I loved the lodge I stayed in at Chhomrong. It is built into the side of an almost vertical slope and sits in a perfect place to see the mountains. It is opposite two valleys, split in the middle by green, forested hillsides, with taller mountain ranges framing the view on either side. It was a fantastic place to wake up to.
At Chhomrong, I already felt much closer to the peaks than at Poon Hill. The sun rose behind, which meant the white tips of the mountains – which I could make out in detail now – were a striking contrast to the deep blue of the sky. I realised how close I was getting to these giant wonders of the world.
Higher and higher
At the beginning of the third day, the path headed downward again for a short while. Then, after a period of gentle walking, the incline began again in earnest. I pushed myself forward at a demanding pace, climbing from around 1,800 metres to 3,200 metres, in around five hours of hiking. I passed several villages until I reached Deurali – the final village before the base camps. I stopped at an opportune moment – as the snow began.
At 3,200 metres high, the temperature noticeably dropped even in the day. Then, as the thick clouds blanketed the sky, and night came, it went below freezing for the first time. It was bearable, in thanks to the fireplace in the lodge’s dining room, where the guests huddled together.
The atmosphere was friendly in all the lodges and there were always other hikers to chat too. In Deurali, the mood seemed particularly encouraging – perhaps because we were all looking for reassurances from others about the day to come – and the prospect of hiking up to Base Camp.
