Hiking the Pennine Way:
Day three
The hike from Middleton-in-Teesdale to Dufton was to be our longest – we clocked just over 21 miles (34km) that day. Thankfully, I woke up feeling far more prepared than the day before, without pain, and feeling relatively refreshed. We started the day with another full breakfast before setting off again.
The Pennine Way heads west out of Middleton. It’s a smooth path on the edge of green fields, next to a wide river that flows alongside for much of the day. It’s a lovely walk here, under the trees, with hills on the far side of the grass. There are places you can walk up to the edge of the river and, at one point, even traipse over rocks that stand above it.
Around four miles in you will start to hear the tallest waterfall in England, High Force. The power of the water crashing over the rocks is a spectacle. And the roar is ferocious, bringing thunder down in an otherwise tranquil setting.
The trail continues along sprawling green landscape for much of the route. On the way, there are several moderate inclines. Some are short and steep, some are long and gradual, but nothing too taxing for the able hiker. Overall, this section is relatively comfortable walking – it is just very long. You can stop at Langdon Beck, around eight miles in, to break up the distance. We had already arranged to continue to Dufton, so had no choice but to carry on.
After Langdon Beck, the scenery transformed into a more rugged wilderness. The river flowed strongly beside us, and there is a section you must clamber over rocks on a hillside next to the water. After this, the trail dissects a subtle and sublime valley. As green hills slope down on either flank, the river flows powerfully to the side of the trail, and you walk in pristine scenery, almost entirely undisturbed.
Next, we came across the most hazardous obstacle on the trail – which seemed to have been missed from the guidebooks – Cauldron Snout. This waterfall is at the base of a reservoir, and the only way to pass it is by climbing the rocks that frame it. This would be tricky in normal conditions, but the spray from the waterfall made the rocks wet and slippery.
We couldn’t see an alternative – although it’s possible you could take a detour off road sometime before to avoid the climb. Be cautious, as your bouldering and/or scrambling skills will be tested. If you are confident in your ability and dexterity, you may enjoy the challenge. Luckily, we were all able to pass this test successfully.
It is almost exactly five miles (8km) from Cauldron Snout to High Cup Nick. The steady incline along the way provides increasingly elevated views, revealing the valley we had just conquered below. As we approached High Cup Nick, the ground levelled out, and the skyline appeared in the distance. We passed black ponies on the way, as wisp of cloud passed by – making me doubt whether we would get much of a view – until suddenly we arrived at the edge of the cliff. And what a sight.
Exhaustion, injuries, low temperatures, all that struggles were put aside to enjoy this moment. Standing at the precipice, the edge of the plateau, looking down across an almost perfectly moulded cradle built into the hill sides. This is one of the most magnificent views in Britain.
We spent too long admiring the view, probably on my account, which meant my joints started to stiffen. And we still had around three miles or more to Dufton. Remarkably, the outstanding views continued along the trail which skirts round High Cup Nick. Mustering the final bit of energy to hike up over the final ascent, before slogging it down steadily along farm roads into the village.
Due to lack of availability of accommodation at Dufton, we stopped for a quick drink before taking a taxi back into Appleton-in-Westmorland. I have no other word to describe how I felt on reaching the pub other than; broken.
After having stuck to the path all day, we took a wrong turn in Appleton, when we mistook our accommodation for a plush hotel. The receptionist did look bemused when we walked in with muddy hiking boots, lugging heavy bags behind us. He politely informed us that our booking was for the pub next door.
The pub was perfect. Warm, comfortable and serving fine, hearty meals – as is customary on the Pennine Way. And it granted me a good night’s sleep before the fourth and final day, which was to be the toughest day of hiking of the trip.
